Step-by-Step Steel Door Installation in London Ontario: A Homeowner’s Checklist

2026-05-05T23:30:01Z

Plefulwnhj: Created page with "<html><p> Homes around London, Ontario take a beating from freeze-thaw cycles, lake-effect snow, and spring rains that find any gap you leave them. That is why a properly installed steel entry door pays off twice, once in comfort and again in longevity. I have replaced enough warped slabs, rotten sills, and rattling jambs around Middlesex County to know the shortest path is not the cheapest one. The right slab, prepped opening, and careful sealing will keep your heat ins..."

<html><p> Homes around London, Ontario take a beating from freeze-thaw cycles, lake-effect snow, and spring rains that find any gap you leave them. That is why a properly installed steel entry door pays off twice, once in comfort and again in longevity. I have replaced enough warped slabs, rotten sills, and rattling jambs around Middlesex County to know the shortest path is not the cheapest one. The right slab, prepped opening, and careful sealing will keep your heat inside in January and your porch dry in April. This is a detailed homeowner’s walkthrough with the local lens you need, whether you are handling your own steel door installation London Ontario or hiring a pro and want to know what to watch.</p> <h2> What makes a good steel door in this climate</h2> <p> A steel entry door is essentially a foam core wrapped in steel skins, with stiles and rails to anchor hinges and hardware. Better models have a polyurethane core with higher density, a composite bottom rail that will not wick water, and factory-applied paint or a baked-on finish. You are not buying a safe, you are buying a thermal barrier that also deters a shoulder check. For London’s climate, an Energy Star certified door for Canada with a U-factor around 1.4 to 1.8 W/m²·K, roughly R-3 to R-4 for a prehung assembly with glass, holds its own. A solid, no-lite steel slab without glass can nudge past R-5. The numbers matter less than build quality and installation. A high-performance slab installed on a spongy or uneven sill will leak air like a tent zipper.</p> <p> Factory weatherstripping that compresses evenly, a properly supported adjustable threshold, and a sill nosing that sheds water are non-negotiable. If your entry is exposed to prevailing winds, consider a door with a thicker gauge skin, a multi-point latch, and heavy-gauge hinges. I have seen cheaper box-store units oil-can in a November gust on an exposed west entry in Hyde Park. Spend a little more for rigidity if your entrance is unprotected.</p> <h2> When replacement is the right call</h2> <p> Some frames are not worth saving. If you can push a screwdriver into the sill, hinge side, or bottom of the jamb and it sinks in, plan on a full prehung replacement. Water damage under old aluminum sill covers is common. If you are already planning window and door replacement London wide, roll the entry into that scope. It is simpler to address flashing and trims together, and you may be able to coordinate colours and brickmould profiles in one order. If your existing frame is square, solid, and modern, a slab-only swap can work. In this region, a slab-only swap is the minority. Decades of ice and salt water tend to rot the threshold and the lower ten inches of jambs.</p> <h2> Quick checklist: tools and materials that actually help</h2> <ul> <li> Prehung steel door sized to your rough opening, with brickmould if needed</li> <li> Low-expansion window and door foam, elastomeric exterior sealant, and flashing tape</li> <li> Composite or metal sill pan or materials to build one, and corrosion-resistant screws</li> <li> Composite shims, level, square, tape measure, oscillating multi-tool</li> <li> Backer rod, drip cap if no overhead protection, and colour-matched exterior paint or touch-up</li> </ul> <h2> Plan the job around a dry day</h2> <p> No one enjoys setting a door while water runs into the subfloor. Aim for a dry window above 5°C. Adhesives and foams behave better, and sealants skin properly. If you must work in colder weather, keep cans and sealants warm inside until needed. In London, a morning frost can lift a sill pan that you set on damp wood. Wipe the substrate, and give yourself time for primers or tapes to tack.</p> <h2> Step-by-step at a glance</h2> <ul> <li> Measure, order, and dry-fit</li> <li> Prepare the opening and build a sill that will not rot</li> <li> Set, shim, and fasten for plumb, level, and even reveal</li> <li> Insulate, flash, and seal for air and water</li> <li> Hang hardware, adjust, and finish</li> </ul> <h2> Measuring without surprises</h2> <p> Most headaches begin with a casual tape pull. Start by measuring the existing slab width and height, hinge handing, and swing direction. Then measure the frame. The most useful numbers are the rough opening on all three axes and the finished floor height at the threshold. A typical 36 by 80 inch slab in a prehung unit needs a rough opening around 38 by 82 inches, but manufacturers vary. London homes from the 1960s and 1970s often have out of square openings by 1/4 inch top to bottom. If your opening is tighter than the manufacturer’s listed minimum, choose a narrower brickmould or plan to plane the framing slightly. Do not expect to squeeze a unit into a frame that is too small. You will rack the jamb, the door will bind in January, and the latch will only catch if you lift the handle.</p> <p> If you have a storm door, note its frame depth. Your new threshold and brickmould can push the door plane outward, which can collide with a storm door sweep. Verify your new unit’s jamb depth against the wall thickness, commonly 4 9/16 inches for 2x4 walls and 6 9/16 inches for 2x6. You want the interior face of the jamb flush with finished drywall to set proper casing.</p> <p> For aesthetics, pick a door style that matches the neighbourhood character. Traditional panels in Old North, cleaner lines for newer subdivisions like Talbot Village. If you want a lite, choose at least a dual-pane, Argon-filled insert with warm-edge spacers. Decorative lites look great, but every glass cutout lowers the overall R-value. That is a trade you make consciously.</p> <h2> Removing the old door without damaging the home</h2> <p> Pull the slab first. Drive out the hinge pins, or back out the screws. Score <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/search?q=Window installation service">Window installation service</a> the interior and exterior caulking along the casing to avoid tearing paint and paper. On the exterior, remove the brickmould or exterior trim gently. If nails will not release, an oscillating multi-tool earns its keep. Cut the shims and fasteners that tie the jamb to the framing. If the sill is stubborn, a couple of relief cuts to break it free help. Watch for low-voltage wires sometimes tucked around entry lights.</p> <p> Inspect the sub-sill. If the top of the subfloor near the threshold is spongy, you are not just installing a new door. You are repairing the floor system. Do not bury rot. A rotted sub-sill will crush later and throw your door out of square. Replace any compromised wood, then vacuum debris. A clean, solid base is the foundation of a quiet, draft-free door.</p> <h2> Building a sill that keeps water out</h2> <p> I do not set doors in London without a sill pan. Water always finds its way to the lowest point. A pre-made composite pan is best. If you are fabricating one, slope it to the exterior a degree or two. Line the sill and up the jambs at least 6 inches with self-adhered flashing tape. Run the first piece on the sill, then side pieces lapped over it. Keep the back edge tight and flush so the interior finished floor transitions cleanly to the threshold. If your entry lacks a porch roof, consider a small drip cap above the door under the siding or brick relief angle. It does not replace flashing, but it reduces the burden on the sealant bead.</p> <p> Before you set the unit, predrill pilot holes through the hinge jamb at the manufacturer’s screw locations. Have composite shims at hand. Wood splits and permanently compresses over time. Composite shims maintain thickness.</p> <h2> Setting the door: plumb, level, and reveal</h2> <p> Dry-fit the door. Place it in the opening without fasteners. Check hinge side plumb with a level. Sight the head for level. Look at the reveal around the slab, that consistent gap you see between the slab and the jamb. You are aiming for about 1/8 inch, even from top to bottom and latch side to hinge side.</p> <p> Commit to your hinge side first. With the slab closed and latched, place shims behind each hinge and at the lock area. Start the long screws through the hinge leafs into the studs, at least 2.5 to 3 inches. Do not rely solely on nails through the brickmould. Those pins hold trim, not structure. With the hinge side set and plumb, adjust the head with shims so the top reveal is even. Then move to the latch side, shimming at the strike and mid-height. Check that the door latches without force and that the sweep just kisses the threshold along its length when the slab closes.</p> <p> An adjustable threshold needs support. I see too many with a void under the middle, which eventually flexes and squeaks. If your manufacturer allows, run a bead of high-quality sealant under the threshold, set it, and add a couple of stainless screws into solid backing at the ends. Do not over-tighten, which can bow the sill.</p> <p> If your house has settled, you may need to slightly cheat the frame to favor function. I once set a unit in a south London bungalow where the rough opening started 3/8 inch wider at the top. For that one, the only way to maintain an even reveal and smooth latch was to bring the top of the latch side in a hair more than dead-plumb would suggest. The reveal ruled the day. You can adjust the strike later with a plate file if needed.</p> <h2> Fastening with security in mind</h2> <p> Once your reveals are true, add screws through the jamb into the studs at shim points. Back out a couple of factory hinge screws and replace them with longer 3-inch screws that grab framing. Do the same at the strike plate. That simple upgrade resists a kick far better than stubby factory screws into soft jamb wood.</p><p> <iframe src="https://www.google.com/maps/embed?pb=!1m18!1m12!1m3!1d5842.661759399723!2d-81.27785212339809!3d42.92915089895788!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!3m3!1m2!1s0x882ef137efa24755%3A0x8e338ba0add4660d!2sMcCallum%20Aluminum%20Ltd!5e0!3m2!1sen!2sca!4v1772474615759!5m2!1sen!2sca" width="560" height="315" style="border: none;" allowfullscreen="" ></iframe></p> <p> Use corrosion-resistant fasteners. London’s winter salt and interior humidity, especially in vestibules where wet boots live, can corrode cheap screws and stain painted jambs. Stainless or properly coated screws disappear into the finish and last.</p> <h2> Insulating and air sealing so the door stays quiet and warm</h2> <p> This stage separates a cozy entry from a whistling one. Use low-expansion window and door foam. The stuff labeled general purpose can bow a jamb. Apply foam in two light passes. The first one fills half the depth; let it tack, then add more. Where the gap is narrow, backer rod and a bead of sealant control expansion. On the exterior, tool a clean, continuous sealant bead where brickmould meets siding or brick. If you are sealing to brick, use a sealant suited to masonry. If the exterior rainscreen demands a weep path, do not block it. A proper joint is hourglass-shaped, with backer rod underneath to allow the sealant to stretch, not just stick.</p> <p> Inside, foam lightly and plan to trim any bulges after curing. I like to leave a bit of an air space near the interior edge and finish with a perimeter bead of acoustical or elastomeric sealant under the interior casing. It keeps sound down and drafts out. With London’s winter winds, you hear the difference the first night.</p> <h2> Flashing that respects how water moves</h2> <p> Start at the bottom and work upward. You already have your sill pan. Next, tuck head flashing or drip cap behind the cladding where possible, then lap your vertical flashing over the sides. The idea is simple: each layer laps over the one below so gravity and wind drive water outward. Where brick meets trim, a backer rod plus a well-tooled sealant joint does the bulk of work. Do not depend on caulking alone to stop bulk water that should have been redirected by flashing.</p> <h2> Hardware that feels solid every time you leave</h2> <p> Handle sets marketed for coastal corrosion resist London’s mix of freeze, melt, and salt well. Align the deadbolt so it throws and retracts without drag. If you have to lift the handle for the bolt to find the strike on a new door, adjust the frame or shim, not your expectations. Reinforce the strike side with a plate that accepts 3-inch screws into the stud. A peephole at 58 to 62 inches suits most households, but set it for the shortest regular user. If you prefer a digital viewer, pick one with a gasketed exterior bezel to avoid water intrusion into the slab.</p><p> <img src="https://mccallumaluminum.on.ca/wp-content/themes/mccallumaluminum/img/logo.png" style="max-width:500px;height:auto;" ></img></p> <p> If you opted for a multi-point lock, follow the manufacturer’s alignment steps carefully. These systems are forgiving in use, but only if set straight from day one. A slight rack will telegraph into a stiff top or bottom throw as the weather shifts.</p> <h2> Paint, touch-ups, and finishing that last</h2> <p> Most steel doors arrive factory-painted or primed. If you are painting, use a high-quality exterior acrylic. Oil-based paints can trap too much heat under sun and can be less flexible as the steel moves. On a south or west exposure, darker colours look sharp but run hotter. Feel your sample in the sun if you can. Heat warping is rare, but swung doors with storm doors can reach high temps behind glass in summer. If you keep your storm door, consider a lighter colour on the entry slab.</p> <p> Touch up hinge screws and small nicks right away. Bare steel is honest about rust if you leave it exposed. On the inside, run a tiny bead of paintable sealant under the casing edges before painting to close hairline gaps.</p> <h2> Common pitfalls I see in and around London</h2> <p> Skipping the sill pan leaves water nowhere to go but your subfloor. Over-foaming bows the jamb so the latch binds as soon as January shrinks the slab. Nailing the brickmould tight to out-of-plane brick makes the door twist visibly. Setting a door on shims at the ends with a void in the middle creates a hollow-sounding threshold that flexes underfoot. Reusing short strike plate screws into soft jamb wood invites a kicked-in door.</p> <p> A quieter but costly mistake is mismatched jamb depth. If your wall is 2x6 and you buy a 4 9/16 inch jamb, your interior casing will sit proud on drywall or your exterior brickmould will not reach. Measure wall thickness including sheathing and <a href="https://wakelet.com/wake/81qGOjbFj9pdJ1XRvd2I4">steel door installation london ontario</a> siding build-up. For stucco or stone accents in parts of the city, you may need a custom brickmould profile or an extension.</p> <h2> Energy performance and rebates, with a local reality check</h2> <p> Doors offer fewer energy gains than windows, but air sealing at a leaky entry can still drop drafts significantly. If you are replacing several components together, look at combined window and door replacement London programs that may be active. Incentives in Ontario have shifted in recent years. The Canada Greener Homes Grant stopped taking new applications, and provincial rebates have changed timing. Some financing, like the Greener Homes Loan, has helped homeowners spread costs. Check current programs with local utilities and official federal and provincial sites before you buy. Incentives come and go, and you do not want to miss one by a month.</p> <h2> Single entry vs. Sidelites and transoms</h2> <p> Many homes in Byron and Oakridge sport sidelites. If yours are rotten or inefficient, a new prehung system with integrated sidelites can be more airtight than piecing parts together. Note that the rough opening grows, and the unit gets heavier. Two sets of hands become essential. When clearances are tight, pull the slab out of the frame during the set, then rehang once the frame is anchored and square. For transoms, double-check headroom under any porch roof. I have seen orders arrive an inch too tall because someone measured to soffit without accounting for slope or trim.</p> <h2> Patio doors are a different animal</h2> <p> While you are working through the entry, you might eye tired sliders. Patio door installation shares some principles with entries, especially around sills and flashing, but the weight and water management are unique. A patio unit needs a robust, perfectly level sill and a clear drainage path for the track. If your patio door sits in a snow load zone off a deck, allow for drift patterns. More than a few homeowners call after their new slider binds in February when the track fills with ice. A small heat cable is a band-aid. Proper sill slope and drainage do the work without ongoing tinkering.</p> <h2> Costs, lead times, and choosing suppliers around London</h2> <p> For a basic, solid, prehung steel entry slab with no glass, you can expect to pay roughly 500 to 1,200 CAD for the unit. Add decorative glass or sidelites, and the range rises to 1,500 to 3,500 CAD or more. Professional installation often runs 400 to 900 CAD for a straightforward swap, more when framing or rot repair enters the picture. Custom colours, upgraded locks, and carpentry to modify the opening add to the tally.</p> <p> Lead times vary. Stock sizes in white fly off shelves quickly in fall. Custom colours or special glass can take 3 to 8 weeks. If you are coordinating with other trades during a broader door installation London Ontario renovation, build the schedule around the door delivery date, not the other way around. A missing entry delays interior trim, paint, and alarm work.</p> <p> Local suppliers and installers know London’s brick sizes, cladding quirks, and how builders in certain subdivisions framed their entries. That familiarity saves callbacks. Whether you buy through a big-box store or a specialty shop, ask to see a cross-section of the threshold and bottom rail. Composite or PVC bottom components fend off water intrusion far better than finger-jointed wood.</p> <h2> Code, permits, and safety</h2> <p> The Ontario Building Code addresses structural, egress, and energy requirements. A straight entry door replacement in the same opening rarely needs a permit. Moving or resizing the opening, altering structural supports, or working on a fire-rated door between a garage and the home may trigger approvals and specific hardware needs. Exterior doors to attached garages need self-closing or at least a tight seal and a proper fire separation. If you have doubts, a quick call to the City of London building department clears them up faster than guesswork.</p> <p> For safety during work, remove power to nearby exterior lights to avoid nicking a live cable. Use eye protection when cutting old fasteners. If lead paint might be present in homes built before the late 1970s, work clean and capture dust.</p> <h2> Final adjustments that make the difference</h2> <p> After the foam cures, check the reveals again. Sometimes the jamb shifts a hair. A quarter turn on hinge screws or a card-thick shim tweak returns the gap to even. Adjust the threshold screws so the sweep just contacts. Too tight shortens the life of the sweep and makes the door hard to close in cold weather when seals stiffen. Operate the latch and deadbolt several times. If the bolt drags, move the strike slightly or file the pocket. Do not let a sticky bolt ride, it chews the finish and chips strike plates.</p> <p> Run your hand around the interior perimeter on a breezy day. If you feel a draft, pinpoint it with an incense stick and seal it. The best test happens after dark. Turn off interior lights, have someone outside shine a flashlight at joints, and look for light leaks. You should see none.</p> <h2> Caring for a steel door through four seasons</h2> <p> A steel door in London sees grit, salt, and sun. Rinse it a few times a winter to remove salt. Wipe the weatherstripping with a damp cloth and a bit of mild soap. A thin film of silicone on the sweep edge helps glide. Check caulking every spring. Hairline cracks at brick joints open quickly with thermal cycles. Touch up paint on chips right away. If your door faces south, consider a light overhang or a storm door with venting to drop interior heat build-up in summer.</p> <p> Hinges loosen over time as wood relaxes. A check every couple of years to snug hinge screws and strike plate screws preserves alignment. When a door goes out in winter and seems fine in summer, it is often swelling and contraction of the jamb or house movement. Small seasonal tuning beats a big fix later.</p> <h2> When to call a pro</h2> <p> If your rough opening is far out of square, you find hidden rot, or a sidelite-transom combination needs reframing, a professional earns their keep. Skilled installers bring purpose-made sill pans, brake-bent flashings, and the muscle memory that prevents dings and scrapes. For homeowners planning multiple upgrades, coordinating a window and door replacement London contractor can streamline schedules and ensure trims, colours, and profiles match across elevations.</p> <p> Good installers walk you through options, explain why they shim where they do, and invite you to inspect reveals before they foam. They do not hide a kinked sweep under a pretty bead of caulk. They are also the ones who will tell you truthfully when a patio door installation or a back entry deserves a different approach than the front.</p> <h2> A homeowner’s payoff</h2> <p> Done right, a new steel door feels solid in your hand. The latch clicks with a clean note, not a rattle. The threshold does not squeak. On a windy February night, you do not hear the hum at the jamb. Come April, a hard rain sheets off the exterior trim and drips clear of the sill. That is the quiet dividend of careful work.</p> <p> If you take one lesson from years of steel doors London Ontario wide, let it be this: respect water, pursue even reveals, and do not rush the sealant and foam. The rest is patience, straight lines, and good screws.</p><p> </p><p> </p><p><h2>Business Information (NAP)</h2>

<strong>Name:</strong> McCallum Aluminum Ltd<br><br>

<strong>Address:</strong> 3392 Wonderland Rd S, London, ON N6L 1A8, Canada<br><br>

<strong>Phone:</strong> (519) 433-4223<br><br>

<strong>Website:</strong> https://mccallumaluminum.on.ca/<br><br>

<strong>Email:</strong> inquiries@mccallumaluminum.on.ca<br><br>

<strong>Hours:</strong><br>
Monday: 8:00 AM – 4:00 PM<br>
Tuesday: 8:00 AM – 4:00 PM<br>
Wednesday: 8:00 AM – 4:00 PM<br>
Thursday: 8:00 AM – 4:00 PM<br>
Friday: 8:00 AM – 4:00 PM<br>
Saturday: Closed<br>
Sunday: Closed<br><br>

<strong>Plus Code:</strong> WPHF+MV London, Ontario<br><br>

<strong>Google Maps URL:</strong> https://www.google.com/maps?cid=10246687099425416717<br><br>

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McCallum Aluminum Ltd is a reliable window and door installation company serving London and surrounding areas.<br><br>
For door replacement in London ON, contact McCallum Aluminum Ltd at (519) 433-4223 or visit https://mccallumaluminum.on.ca/.<br><br>
McCallum Aluminum Ltd provides quality-driven service for windows, helping homeowners improve curb appeal across the local area.<br><br>
To find McCallum Aluminum Ltd on Google Maps, use: https://www.google.com/maps?cid=10246687099425416717.<br><br>
Looking for a professional installer near you? Call (519) 433-4223 and learn more at https://mccallumaluminum.on.ca/.<br><br>

<h2>Popular Questions About McCallum Aluminum Ltd</h2>

<strong>What does McCallum Aluminum Ltd specialize in?</strong><br>
McCallum Aluminum Ltd specializes in residential window and exterior door installation and replacement in London, Ontario and surrounding areas.<br><br>

<strong>Where is McCallum Aluminum Ltd located?</strong><br>
3392 Wonderland Rd S, London, ON N6L 1A8, Canada. Google Maps: https://www.google.com/maps?cid=10246687099425416717<br><br>

<strong>What areas do you serve?</strong><br>
McCallum Aluminum Ltd serves London, Ontario and surrounding communities in Southwestern Ontario.<br><br>

<strong>What are the business hours?</strong><br>
Monday–Friday: 8:00 AM – 4:00 PM. Saturday–Sunday: Closed.<br><br>

<strong>How do I request a quote or estimate?</strong><br>
Call <a href="tel:+15194334223">+1 (519) 433-4223</a> or visit https://mccallumaluminum.on.ca/ and use the contact form.<br><br>

<strong>Do you install patio doors and entry doors?</strong><br>
Yes — McCallum Aluminum Ltd installs exterior entry doors and sliding patio door systems, along with replacement windows.<br><br>

<strong>How can I contact McCallum Aluminum Ltd?</strong><br>
Phone: <a href="tel:+15194334223">+1 (519) 433-4223</a><br>
Email: <a href="mailto:inquiries@mccallumaluminum.on.ca">inquiries@mccallumaluminum.on.ca</a><br>
Website: https://mccallumaluminum.on.ca/<br>
Google Maps: https://www.google.com/maps?cid=10246687099425416717<br>
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/mccallumaluminum/<br><br>

<h2>Landmarks Near London, Ontario</h2>

1) <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Victoria%20Park%2C%20London%20ON">Victoria Park</a> — Visiting downtown? Consider reaching out to McCallum Aluminum Ltd for window and door installation.<br><br>
2) <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Budweiser%20Gardens%2C%20London%20ON">Budweiser Gardens</a> — Nearby homeowners can connect with McCallum Aluminum Ltd for exterior upgrades.<br><br>
3) <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Covent%20Garden%20Market%2C%20London%20ON">Covent Garden Market</a> — In the core? Ask about window and door replacement options.<br><br>
4) <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Museum%20London%2C%20London%20ON">Museum London</a> — Proud to serve local neighborhoods around London’s cultural hub.<br><br>
5) <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Springbank%20Park%2C%20London%20ON">Springbank Park</a> — Enjoy the park and consider improving your home’s comfort with new windows and doors.<br><br>
6) <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Western%20University%2C%20London%20ON">Western University</a> — Serving homeowners and families across the London area.<br><br>
7) <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Harris%20Park%2C%20London%20ON">Harris Park</a> — Local service for nearby communities throughout London and surrounding area.<br><br>
8) <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Banting%20House%20National%20Historic%20Site%2C%20London%20ON">Banting House National Historic Site</a> — A London landmark near homes that can benefit from exterior upgrades.<br><br>
9) <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Fanshawe%20Conservation%20Area%2C%20London%20ON">Fanshawe Conservation Area</a> — Serving London and nearby communities with professional installation.<br><br>
10) <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Masonville%20Place%2C%20London%20ON">Masonville Place</a> — In North London? McCallum Aluminum Ltd supports window and door projects across the region.<br><br></p></html>

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Step-by-Step Steel Door Installation in London Ontario: A Homeowner’s Checklist